Monday, July 19, 2010

Becoming a 5-tool player Part 2A. (The suit.)

I'm not a suit guy personally; however there are times where I do need to put one on. Fortunately for me I was blessed with a father who understands the particulars of style, And he always told me it doesn't matter the color, or the pattern, but the FIT is what makes the suit. Too often you'll see a guy with an off the rack suit he didn't bother to get tailored. Or a guy who has gained or lost weight content with wearing his favorite suit despite the fact it fits incorrectly. Here is guide to helping you purchase the correct suit.

The first thing to do, if you haven’t already, is get properly measured this includes: neck, shoulders, sleeves, chest, waist and inseam. Once you know your size you are free to hit the dressing rooms. And when you do go shopping for men's suits, keep these four things in mind:


Number one: The Fit of your Trousers

Make sure that the waistline of your trousers is comfortable and that you can stick two fingers into the waist while you're wearing them. And as far as pleats are concerned, it’s usually a personal preference. However, as a general rule, pleats are better for those with larger tummies and not a good idea for those who are thin. This is because a flat front trousers accentuate your tummy if you have one and pleats help cover it up. And conversely, pleats make a skinny guy look even skinnier, and not in a good way.



Number two: The Hem of your trouser

Nothing says sloppy more than a pile of fabric at your ankle. Your pants should reach your shoes and have a slight break. Cuffed or uncuffed is your choice, but keep in mind that cuffless makes you look taller if you happen to be a little shorter and cuffs looks better on someone with long legs. Cuffs also appeal to a more mature consumer.



Number three: The Length of your sleeves

Make sure your sleeve length is right on, otherwise you will look like you borrowed someone else’s suit. If the sleeve covers your shirt cuff, it is too long. It should just reach the base of your thumb, revealing a half inch to an inch of your shirt cuff—very classy.


Number four: The waist of your jacket

The jacket should fit easily across your stomach. The traditional American suit with two buttons, which has been a mainstay for many years, is being replaced by suit jackets which are more fitted and have three and four buttons. However, the classic two-button style remains popular, and some two-button jackets offer a fresh twist with higher button placement similar to the three-button style and is often more flattering. Whether your preferred style is classic or modern, look for fitted waistlines that enhance the shape of your body. Getting a close fit at the waist is, do I dare say it?, a good thing.


When it is all said and done, you should be able to stretch and bend easily in your suit. Make sure that you that you have free movement of your arms. As a test, bring your arms out straight in front of you, and also try sitting in a chair and pretend you are working. You should always be comfortable.



In case the text doesn't do it for you...I've provided a few examples.







The two example(s) listed above are "Properly Fitted suits".










The two listed above can be categorized as "Ill-Fitting"







Side By Side Comparison





I'll save the conclusion for Part 2B...which will detail Different cuts of suit, along with Shirts, Ties, and putting together Proper combination's.